Game Changers

Game Changers - MOMU Antwerp

Antwerp Day 2 July 3rd 2016

I am often in the head space that nothing can go wrong when you are in a museum.... 
Some may say that I just have my head in the clouds. 

But when you are in a really good exhibition, time does seem to stop. One reacts emotively to what is laid out before you. It doesn't always happen and sometimes it may happen with just one object. (The same thing happens when walking in nature or being visually aware in a day to day way too). At Game Changers, MOMU, this was the case for me. 

None more so than when in front of the pale, salmon silk, Balenciaga dress in the Technical Mastery case.

MOMU Sunday (continued)

MOMU Sunday (continued)

I was slightly Technically Challenged!

one of the films from the opening section

           Following this breathtaking opening was the chance to see a collection of Balenciaga dresses that one rarely has the opportunity to. The first case was a collection of iconic black dresses. Two of these were revolving to enable the detail front and back to be seen which worked so well. There were definitely two dresses here that I would love to try to recreate. Especially the piece with layered shoulders which had a similar silhouette to my most favourite dress. 

 

           Something that I learned after my visit here and the conversation with  the Collections Manager was the importance of perfect mannequin-age the idea that you just see the clothes, this is the holy grail of fashion exhibitions. At MOMU one has found this.

           The opening of the exhibition begins with the phrase ‘Tiger’s Leap’ taken from the writing of Walter Benjamin, fashion’s reflecting on the past to leap into the future. Balenciaga did this in the 1940’s creating a whole new silhouette for women. Far removed from the New Look from Dior, offering new readings of past shapes and continuing to experiment and push boundaries.  

The kimono always an iconic garment, recreated in many forms by many designers. Can it be challenged? Within the exhibition we see new ways of thinking and how the designers brought together for this exhibition have challenged the form.

I learned from the space between body and fabric from the traditional kimono not the style but the space Issy Miyake

The language brings to mind the context behind clothes and how we studying fashion continue to work with a different narrative.

One More Thing from Tilburg

Pop Art Fabrics and Fashion – From Warhol to Westwood

Temporary exhibition Textiel Museum, Tilburg

The exhibition was on the ground floor in the museum located between the Lab and the historical gallery. Having had such openness of conversation and photography even with the commissioned pieces happening in the Lab it was strange to move to  space of no photographs. So my initial visit had some sneaky pictures, my second visit I asked and the guard was kind enough to say yes for educational purposes. Which with the complexity of the exhibition narrative and some innovative textile and fashion curation was really helpful to record for future reference.

The exhibition opened in the era of Rock ‘n Roll with some excellent examples of how textile print captured the zest and energy of the time. Textiles as an advertising and marketing a tool were presented through pieces from Bassett’s Liquorice allsorts, Bass Long Life Beer and Martini. This was innovative brand development and pieces that are often discarded. The Martini printed fabric had been made into a circular skirt confirming the sophisticated message of the drink and its standing as an aspirational brand.

sneaky photo hence blurred.......martini skirt

The hook of the exhibition were the pieces from Andy Warhol and Vivienne Westwood. I have a mixed relationship with Warhol. I am in awe of his ability to grab the zeitgeist of the time and be such an innovator. The taking of his work by Philip Treacy to create headwear breathed new life into over used visuals. So I stepped into this part of the exhibition determined to remove my pre-conceived thoughts and biases. I was justly rewarded. The textiles pieces were fresh and exquisitely created and charted the time pre fame when Warhol worked as a graphic designer and created textile designs. With the current vintage pattern trends the fabrics displayed were really appealing. I particularly liked the colours and shapes on the lemon print and the fountain pen print which had been made into a skirt. There were not many pieces in this part of the display but enough to tell the narrative, make one smile and look again at a designer who can be ubiquitous.

Warhol Lemon Print

Turning from the Warhol the exhibition moved cleanly into 1960’s design. The tabloid of fashion was well formed with excellent mannequins, displaying the clothes and the look. Fashion exhibitions can be difficult, a fine line between a shop display and museum narrative. The casing for the stands was beautiful. Sometimes it would be great to just walk into an exhibition and see the exhibition not the accouterments that make it. But I am away on research work, so I guess its allowed!!

Op Art dresses

Great range of Rabanne, Quant, Cardin and some hand made pieces highlighting how the look was taken on by teenagers and youths. The vitrines along side had stunning selections of jewellery and accessories which confirmed the pop art and op  arts impact on fashion and design. The scenography of the exhibition was well designed and implemented.

The two rooms to the right charted the next stage and how music played an influential role. There were some high profile pieces from paper dresses and the adverts that promoted them to pieces designed and worn by the Beatles. I particularly liked the knitwear piece designed by Hockney. Always good to see a bit of Yorkshire.

Hockney designed jumper

The final room showcasing the Westwood pieces was a mix of video, oversized objects, T-shirt design and the clothes from punk. Again well spaced and engaged the viewer. Having such open space to exhibit and showcase work makes such a profound difference.

Really excellent exhibition even more so when I was able to take photographs.......